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9 June 2003
De Plan Dat Didn't Happen.
As we sailed across the broad Atlantic,
I did in fact do a good deal of ruminating about where the Anna
M and I might be headed. I more or less came to the conclusion that
I would have to sell her when we returned to Europe. Once anchored
in English Harbour, we promptly set about smartening her up, as
well as carrying out the more serious maintenance that was required,
notably repairing the fridge and the sails. By the time Tony left
us to fly back to Dublin, she was beginning to lose that shaggy
and dusty Cabo Verde look, if not exactly to emulate the sleek and
manicured cats to be seen about the West Indies.
We made a plan alright, to go with the breeze to the Virgin Isles,
and thence in the time-honoured way to head north for Bermuda and
then west for the Azores, and so homewards. The east wind is likely
to veer south-east and finally south-west as one heads north, and
one can cut straight for the Azores then, once one feels it blows
with sufficient conviction from a westerly airt to carry one on
north of the doldrums around which the North Atlantic pivots. The
first part went off very well; we whistled up to Road Town on Tortola,
and lade in stores from the supermarket beside the dock there on
Saturday 24th May, before immediately heading on for Jost Van Dyke
Island on the north side of the British Virgin Isles, which is to
Tortola somewhat as Sark is to Guernsey.
There is a character on Jost Van Dyke, a kind of king of the island
by the sound of it, by the name of Foxy, who was to host a wooden
boat regatta that weekend. This was just the ticket, to provide
a day or two's r&r before we headed back across the ocean, not
to mention to show off the old boat a little in that part of the
world, one of the very best there is for sailing. Foxy's pub under
the palm trees on the beach of Great Harbour, with great food and
calypso music, turned out to be one of the hottest spots in the
Caribbean. I nearly sheered away when I saw all the boats there,
but my young crew would not have been pleased, so I checked my aversion
to crowds and found a spot to drop our anchor.
The warm welcome ashore led to our lining out for a race in the
morning, the crew fortified by Tim and Bonny from one of the mere
fibreglass boats, and Alex from the shore, who in due course turned
out to be the local police sergeant. I may say we did very creditably,
coming second in our class. What's more, since I pride myself in
being a non-competitive geezer, and have never indulged in such
foolishness before, unless it be a very little as a teenager, I
have to say that I surprised myself by the extent to which I thoroughly
enjoyed it!
So we were duly under starting orders for the second race in the
afternoon, and were off in great shape on the starboard tack with
boats close on both quarters, when an unaccountable old yankee schooner
suddenly tacked in front of us. It was impossible to avoid him and
to try would only have involved more boats in the collision. I thought
we would surely be stove in, but a wave just lifted his bow-sprit
above our deck, only to break our rail and lifeline as well as itself.
Back we went to anchor in Great Harbour. Alex gave me a drive around
his spectacular island, and we enjoyed just one of our prizes, a
free meal at Foxy's. I had fresh sword-fish, which was even better
than our own barbecued delights!
Fortunately also the rogue Yankees could not have been more decent
and apologetic, and took us back to their base at Benner Bay on
St Thomas and took the repairs in hand. However these things would
take a while, and we were all already up against that implacable
old pirate, worse than any of them, Captain Time. Now he had us,
with no sea-room to spare. We left Anna M in good hands though,
and were pleased to find that we could fly to Gatwick at a cost
of just £170 with Sunsail Flights. They may send their boats
by the freighter-load to the Med for the summer, but the flights
go on. Here is the number:- (+)44 2392 222 226.
In fact I am told that the sailing is on the whole better in the
Caribbean in the summer, especially because it is so much less crowded
than the high season, which is from November till April. One is
just up against that little problem of the hurricane risk, which
it is difficult to get insurance cover against. My insurers will
not cover me for 'damage resulting from named tropical storms or
hurricanes' within the 'hurricane box', which is from 12deg40' to
35degN and from 30 to 100degW, from July 1st to October 31st. However,
once I had gotten over the shock of being so abruptly 'de-planned',
I realised that there was a great deal to be said for staying in
that part of the world for at least a year, and seeing if I might
actually be able to make some decent money in the charter business
there. Somehow the Caribbean feels just the place for me!
I came home to catch up on the rest of my life when I had the chance,
but I shall rejoin my little ship again shortly and head south for
Trinidad. Maybe I shall even manage to persuade my other half to
come with me. And I'm told that the Orinoco Delta in Venezuela is
a very fascinating place indeed
. So although this is finally
the end of CC2CV, I hope to have some more adventures to tell you
about fairly soon. And maybe you'll even join in yourself, be you
friend or stranger to me in this our one and only precious world?
Joe Aston
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