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 Dolphin and whale watching under sail

Cape Clear to Cabo Verdes
Rias Bajas

Like the south-west coast of Ireland, the Galician coast on the north-west of Spain is heavily indented with fjord-like bays that they call rías. Those north of Cabo Fisterra (Cape Finisterre) are the Rias Altas and those to the south, Rias Bajas. I was very glad to pass that corner so easily in the end, especially because a southerly gale was being forecast for the next day; but once one is past Cape Finisterre, the worst is over. There is plenty of shelter as far as Bayona, with some off-shore islands protecting much of the coast. After that, it is only a matter of patience till the wind comes into the northerly airt, and one is away.
Shook bow - inspecting the damage
Dolphins Portosin

We put into Portosin on the Ria de Muros, where I knew there was a good harbour with a travel-lift, and moored there at 0330 on the 29th. As we sailed up the Ria in the dark, fishermen were very busy with sardines or sprat, and dolphins followed us awhile. They even came into the harbour next day (above). We soon had Anna M out of the water on the travel lift, and were able to inspect the damage and effect temporary repairs. There was no ship-wright about, so I filled the worst crack with epoxy putty, then screwed a piece of ply-wood (with Sikaflex under it) over the most affected area.
The southerly gale came and went quickly enough while we were on the lift. It has to be said there was still a considerable flow of water welling in up forward as we sailed back down the Ria again, but it was evidently stable and manageable. We beat on against the warm SSW breeze, past many fishing boats and the low-lying Cabo Corrubedo with its offlying rocks.
Hauling pots off Corrubedo

The breeze freshened in the afternoon, but we could lay the northern entrance to the Ria de Pontevedra. It was good to gain the shelter of the Isla Ons as dark fell, and then to find a sheltery anchorage inside the mussel rafts off Bueu.

Mussel rafts Bueu

These viveros are moored in every spare sheltery corner of the Rias Bajas, with the mussels growing on the many ropes suspended from them. One shudders to think of the mess that a coating of oil would make to them, not to mention the pretty (Sandwich?) terns that were flying about above them.
The weather was similar next day, as we beat past the pristine strands of the Islas Cies and so came to Bayona on the 1st of November. It went to blow hard from the south with heavy rain, so we had no choice but to make the best of that jolly town! However the south wind ran out of puff at last with that gale. The 3rd Nov was a Sunday; so I went to Mass in the old Carmelite convent behind the strand.
Pinta
Perhaps Columbus and his men went to Mass there, when they had made their land-fall after their great discovery, and were careening their ships on that same strand! There is a replica of the Pinta there today; her Captain was from Bayona. After that, we set off, with the promise of a fair wind.

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Revised:05 December 2002
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