Crossing Biscay 2 - Cape Clear to Cabo Verdes

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Crossing Biscay 2

The wind moderated still more on the morning of the 26th, but it also backed fair south for a while, before going to veer and freshen again. By 2100hrs it was again blowing SW force 7/8. This time we struck all sail except for the stay-sail; the old girl forged on at 3 knots, but we were losing considerable ground to leeward. Now I was glad of the westing we had put in early in the trip! However the glass was rising all the time, and next morning, 27th, the wind came round W by N and really did moderate.

Everyone was in good shape and we had that winning feeling. By 1500 hrs however, there was no wind at all, and we were motoring with only the main-sail set close-sheeted in a filthy swell.
Fortunately that state of affairs did not last long. A blessed easterly sprang up in the evening, and a fine night's sailing had our spirits' rising further. Morning on the 28th revealed the Costa da Muerte under a fine sunrise.

A peachy day's sailing followed as we closed Cabo Fisterra and were able to dry out the ship and enjoy a fine and very playful accompanying school of dolphins. How I hope they, both the fishermen and the dolphins, manage to survive this appalling oil pollution!

There was an American warship off Finisterre, to be heard interrogating passing ships on the VHF, as to their identity, cargos, derivation and destination etc. The proceedings had a bizarre war-movie atmosphere, especially when he was questioning a German ship. The American was causing resentment all round and someone told him to go home. I was reminded of a similar conversation I once overheard off Donaghadee. The posh RN accent wanted to know whether a coaster plying from Manchester to Coleraine had any passengers. A broad Lancashire accent replied "Some of the crew are a bit lazy like, but you couldn't exactly call them passengers!"

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